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> Clutch Drag
Ordy
post Mar 8 2016, 06:45 AM
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Over the winter I replaced the seals on the shifter, starter jack shaft, and the lip seal. I also removed the tranny cover, replaced the clutch cable; which was leaking before, and replaced all aluminum covers with shiny chrome covers.

As per the Service Manual I ran this procedure:

Complete adjustment with bike at room temperature, i.e. sitting over night, put the bike on a lift and wheels off the ground.

a. Slide rubber boot off cable adjuster. Holding cable adjuster with 1/2" wrench, loosen jam nut using a 9/16" wrench (nut size may vary depending on cable manufacturer) Turn jam nut to top of cable, which moves it away from cable adjuster. Back off cable adjuster with wrench toward jam nut, which creates free play at the hand lever. Nut size may vary depending on cable brand

b. Remove the five screws on the derby cover and remove derby cover.

c. Using an 11/16" offset wrench, loosen the clutch adjuster nut. May have to insert a 7/32" allen wrench in adjuster screw to keep clutch from turning while loosening clutch adjuster nut.

d. Using your fingers, turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is lightly touching the release. This takes up all free play in push rod.

e. Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.

f. Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning using the 7/32 allen wrench.

g. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set ball and ramp release mechanism.

h. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is eliminated at hand lever. Pull clutch cable ferrule away from clutch lever bracket to check free play. Turn cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16 “ - 1/8" (1.6mm - 3.2mm) free play between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket.

i. Hold adjuster with 1/2" wrench. Using 9/16" wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.
Nut size may vary with brand of cable

j. Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

After doing that I started her up in neutral. No problems. Get on and shift to first and the clutch stayed engaged even with the clutch lever touching the handlebars. Release the brake and she starts moving. Cut the engine. Went back into the garage and tried it again the adjustments again. Buttoned her up and same result. Left it over night to cool down and I will give it another go.

Maybe I screwed something up when I put everything back together? The Clutch pushes out when i adjust it and apply pressure to the lever. I have 1/8th clearance at the lever and, when adjusting the clutch itself I went 1/2 counter clock wise after just making contact. Also made sure that the adjuster screw did not move when I tightened the nut.

The Clutch assembly did sit on my bench, wrapped in towels all winter. Maybe the plates are not lubed and are sticking? Can I fix that? Oh boy....

Ride safe
Ordy
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deuce04
post Mar 8 2016, 11:35 AM
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When you start it pull the clutch in a bunch of times to get the oil on the plates.
Then try it.



This post has been edited by deuce04: Mar 8 2016, 11:36 AM
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Ordy
post Mar 8 2016, 06:23 PM
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QUOTE(deuce04 @ Mar 8 2016, 11:35 AM) *
When you start it pull the clutch in a bunch of times to get the oil on the plates.
Then try it.

Thanks Paul.

Tried it but no joy.

Two things. Clutch drags and having a hard time shifting.

Readjusted clutch and tension on clutch cable. Checked tension on chain. Chain's good. But emptied about 5 ounces of Primary oil. May have over filled.

Took it out and...clutch still drags but engine does not shut off. Stays on. Took it around the block and couldn't shift into 2nd. Removed new shifter rod and greased it. Put it back in. Took bike for a test ride. Now I can shift into 2nd and 3rd but only if I'm going fast enough. Can't down shift unless I'm at the correct speed for all gears. So figure 30-35 for third, 20 -25 for 2nd... Did this for about 20 minutes and then called it a day. May have to take it to the stealers...

Ride safe
Ordy
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deuce04
post Mar 8 2016, 07:06 PM
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Sounds like the plates are stuck together
Probably from sitting all winter on a bench
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Ordy
post Mar 8 2016, 08:16 PM
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QUOTE(deuce04 @ Mar 8 2016, 07:06 PM) *
Sounds like the plates are stuck together
Probably from sitting all winter on a bench

That's what I'm thinking. Not a hard job; did it on my Deuce, replaced the steel plates and friction plates and clutch spring.

That should solve the dragging but what about the problem shifting? Hate to think that something is fucked in the tranny...

Thanks again bruddah...

Ride safe
Ordy
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screwball
post Mar 8 2016, 08:24 PM
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IF the tranny wasn't fucked up before you replaced the clutch, it won't be fucked up now unless you did something to it.
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Bamsambo
post Mar 9 2016, 05:48 PM
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I would pull the clutch pack and clean all the pieces. find the correct diagram, reassemble and reinstall, making damn sure I assemble it correctly. That should fix the shifting problem too.
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Blackcloud
post Mar 9 2016, 06:41 PM
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Ordy, just to be clear, if your bike still won't shift, it could be a mechanical problem with the transmission.
That's not the same thing as a fucked up tranny.

Fucked up tranny:
Attached File  Andrea.jpg ( 37.96k ) Number of downloads: 0
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Ordy
post Mar 9 2016, 07:49 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hysterical.gif)

thanks Sammy

BC. Somethings you just can't unsee...

Ride safe
Ordy

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Ordy
post Mar 11 2016, 02:13 PM
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Sammy and Lou:

On the phone with Lou last few days. He told me not to replace the perfectly good clutch. Sammy, you told me to go back in, take everything out, and put it back in the correct way.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/whistling.gif) I had an HVAC instructor named Murray Grodner back in the early '90's. Old WWII vet who was at Normandy on the day. He'd walk around with a licensed pearl handled six shooter. He wasn't afraid to use it.

My most vivid recollection of Mr. Grodner were his sayings. He would say shit like "Shoemakers!, You should let me give you a refund right now because you will never be HVAC technician's. You'll always be shoemaker's." He'd yell out to you in front of the class too. "Shoemaker!" Another one of his sayings was "You see, a little knowledge is dangerous..... in the wrong hands". The guys hated him, me? I loved him....

From the "A little knowledge is dangerous" camp you have me. In the process of pulling the friction rings when I noticed that the clutch circlip was not seated in the groove. That would probably cause the clutch to drag! Set it correctly but pulled the rings and gave them a nice bath. Put everything back, re adjusted the clutch, as per the service manual, and adjusted the clutch cable. Took her out and she shifts like butter.

Lou and Sammy, thanks for being my Murray Grodner's....

Ride safe
Ordy
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Bamsambo
post Mar 11 2016, 02:37 PM
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Glad ya got it fixed. I'm a firm believer in "Don't fix what ain't broke." The clutch wasn't broke when you first took it out. It just needed a little TLC.
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Jarhead
post Mar 11 2016, 05:00 PM
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Glad it's back together, when I was racing we lived by the phrase "the Devil is in the details"
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badco_67
post Mar 16 2016, 05:39 PM
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I'm sure that was a bit frustrating along the way, but nice ending!
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Ordy
post Mar 17 2016, 06:13 AM
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QUOTE(badco_67 @ Mar 16 2016, 06:39 PM) *
I'm sure that was a bit frustrating along the way, but nice ending!


This all started over the winter.

I had oil leaks at the shift linkage, behind the inner primary, and at the clutch cable. I removed the primary and pulled the sprocket/clutch/chain as one and then pulled the inner primary and replaced all the seals while i was in there. I think at one point I wanted to look at the rings, to see if any were warped or discolored and I removed the circlip. Guess I didn't seat it correctly. I replaced the leaky clutch cable. Cable was too short and leaked like a sieve at the screw/o-ring assembly at the transmission cover. Had emailed Wild1's and they responded that the 12.5" Bars need +6" cables and you can't use the stock cables. No leaks.

Bike runs better than when Mikey sold her to me. Just needed a little TLC on that clutch adjustment. Looks good too! I replaced all the aluminum covers with chrome covers I got on eBay. I also replaced the rear aux light/bumper assembly with Harley's chromed skirt/LED light assembly. Looks custom. The Eglide standard doesn't come with a ambient temperature gauge (not that they work worth a shit) but I picked one up on eBay, used, for $15. Looks better there than a blank cover.

Haven't gotten' around to installing the cruise control. Got all the parts piece meal. Came out to around $250. Harley does not sell the kit, that use to cost around $300, anymore. So you have to dig for the part numbers and order from Harley. I got most of my parts from these guys:

http://www.granitestateharleystore.com/oem...%7eCONTROL%5cFC

They have a parts finder, which comes in handy when you're going to the Stealer and want to be in and out. I got everything from Granite State Harley except the cruise control module, which they charge $400 for; I got mine on eBay for around $150! and the actual cruise switch that goes on the fairing. I got that on eBay too for around $30.

I'm taking a few days off next month so I'll tackle that... I'll also post up some pics of that rear fender skirt; looks bad ass...

Ride safe
Ordy
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Jarhead
post Mar 17 2016, 06:34 AM
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QUOTE(Ordy @ Mar 17 2016, 04:13 AM) *
This all started over the winter.

I had oil leaks at the shift linkage, behind the inner primary, and at the clutch cable. I removed the primary and pulled the sprocket/clutch/chain as one and then pulled the inner primary and replaced all the seals while i was in there. I think at one point I wanted to look at the rings, to see if any were warped or discolored and I removed the circlip. Guess I didn't seat it correctly. I replaced the leaky clutch cable. Cable was too short and leaked like a sieve at the screw/o-ring assembly at the transmission cover. Had emailed Wild1's and they responded that the 12.5" Bars need +6" cables and you can't use the stock cables. No leaks.

Bike runs better than when Mikey sold her to me. Just needed a little TLC on that clutch adjustment. Looks good too! I replaced all the aluminum covers with chrome covers I got on eBay. I also replaced the rear aux light/bumper assembly with Harley's chromed skirt/LED light assembly. Looks custom. The Eglide standard doesn't come with a ambient temperature gauge (not that they work worth a shit) but I picked one up on eBay, used, for $15. Looks better there than a blank cover.

Haven't gotten' around to installing the cruise control. Got all the parts piece meal. Came out to around $250. Harley does not sell the kit, that use to cost around $300, anymore. So you have to dig for the part numbers and order from Harley. I got most of my parts from these guys:

http://www.granitestateharleystore.com/oem...%7eCONTROL%5cFC

They have a parts finder, which comes in handy when you're going to the Stealer and want to be in and out. I got everything from Granite State Harley except the cruise control module, which they charge $400 for; I got mine on eBay for around $150! and the actual cruise switch that goes on the fairing. I got that on eBay too for around $30.

I'm taking a few days off next month so I'll tackle that... I'll also post up some pics of that rear fender skirt; looks bad ass...

Ride safe
Ordy

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Fgowi
post Mar 17 2016, 06:27 PM
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Buttah!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)
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Sick_Puppy
post Mar 17 2016, 08:19 PM
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Take it for a nice long test ride this Sunday and confirm all ok.
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Ordy
post Mar 18 2016, 07:30 AM
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QUOTE(Sick_Puppy @ Mar 17 2016, 09:19 PM) *
Take it for a nice long test ride this Sunday and confirm all ok.

Been riding it to work since last week.

No leaks and she runs beautifully...

Love my bike (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Ride safe
Ordy
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Sick_Puppy
post Mar 18 2016, 08:07 PM
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Was kidding, several inches of snow predicted here Sunday and heading your way. Still have the snow blower running?
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Ordy
post Mar 19 2016, 06:49 AM
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QUOTE(Sick_Puppy @ Mar 18 2016, 09:07 PM) *
Was kidding, several inches of snow predicted here Sunday and heading your way. Still have the snow blower running?

Yep. Matter of fact just refilled the tires on ol' Betsy. Probably won't need her as the weather guy downgraded it to maybe one inch on grassy services. But like everything else in life that shit is subject to change without any notice.

Suppose to be back in the low 50's by Tuesday and mid to low 60's by Thursday up here. Riding season started early this year.

Ride safe
Ordy
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Ordy
post Mar 19 2016, 07:05 AM
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QUOTE(Ordy @ Mar 19 2016, 07:49 AM) *
Yep. Matter of fact just refilled the tires on ol' Betsy. Probably won't need her as the weather guy downgraded it to maybe one inch on grassy services. But like everything else in life that shit is subject to change without any notice.

Suppose to be back in the low 50's by Tuesday and mid to low 60's by Thursday up here. Riding season started early this year.

Ride safe
Ordy



Ol' Betsy: my 7.5hp Sears Craftsman Snow Thrower that I bought in 1998!. Still Going.......

I have a Weber grill that I bought back in 1997! A two burner portable that I keep under the shed. Have replaced the grates, flavorizer bars, and hose and this thing....still going...

When that mad man Kartsman use to post regularly he got on me for complaining about my 14 year old mower that no longer worked. His words...."Jesus Ordy, you got a dog's life out of that thing and you're crying. Time to buy a new one"..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hysterical.gif) Upto that point I never heard someone refer to a dogs life as barometer for the life of a mower.... BTW: my Westie will be 16 in August. I'm going to be shit when that little guy goes...k

Ride safe
Ordy
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LoudnProud
post Mar 19 2016, 10:43 AM
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I'll bet it looks Great, Bro....

Great Job!!!!

Can't wait to see it...
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