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> My old-faithful is giving me my first trouble...
SeaHag
post Aug 11 2015, 02:15 AM
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Started up the 05 Roadglide last Friday to meet up with some friends for a day of riding and there was a strange amount of vibration being transmitted through the frame. It seems tied to fuel delivery as it's at it's worst when there is a load on the motor and gas increases. Having said that, there was no strange noises emanating from anywhere I could detect; the motor seemed to have plenty of power as I took it up to the triple digit mark a couple times and rode all day with my wife aboard. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bike.gif) But it was disconcerting riding the bike feeling like it was going to shake apart.

First thoughts were bad gas since the bike operated just fine the week before when I last rode it to work. I thought perhaps with all the recent high heat and humidity the gas had absorbed the extra moisture in the air. New gas didn't fix it so I thought maybe it was a bad motor mount, but the front is a two year old Velva-Ride urethane that should be good forever and the other two look good on first inspection. Third thought was perhaps my slow leaking primary emptied out enough to prevent the hydraulic primary chain tensioner from working properly. The oil level was fine; but I topped it off anyway while in there and it didn't improve anything. I haven't checked the plugs yet, but they were brand new in June. I'll be pulling the plugs over the weekend to take a look though. If everything looks good with the plugs and it's still running the same, my next thought is that somehow the Screaming Eagle Race tuner has dropped the map for my big bore worked motor; as I know that has happened to some other friends of mine in the past...though never to me or this bike before. I'll have to locate my dongle and SERT program disc to install on my new laptop and reflash the map.

Any thoughts?
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Blackcloud
post Aug 11 2015, 05:08 AM
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You already thought of the things I would have checked.
Maybe runout?
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wholehog
post Aug 11 2015, 05:22 AM
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make sure the exhaust is not contacting the frame anywhere and have a real good look at the downtube welds at the front motor mount support (look close powdercoat hides the cracking)....maybe the welder took a coffee break on yours like he did on mine

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LoudnProud
post Aug 11 2015, 06:16 PM
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Damn....

I said to put the vibe-rider on the passenger seat, Bro... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hysterical.gif)
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SeaHag
post Aug 18 2015, 03:54 AM
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Thanks for the tips. In case any of you were waiting for updates, I haven't had a chance yet to look into the problem. Was going to do it over the weekend; but a pretty nasty crash on the mountain bike Friday had me laying low all weekend for the most part.

I'll be sure to update this thread when I've got a solution or some info.
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LoudnProud
post Aug 19 2015, 12:39 PM
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QUOTE(SeaHag @ Aug 18 2015, 03:54 AM) *
Was going to do it over the weekend; but a pretty nasty crash on the mountain bike Friday had me laying low all weekend for the most part.


Sorry to hear that.... I Hope it wasn't too serious.... Hurt your pride a little I bet....

Anyway, I hope it's an easy fix on your RG.... I'm sure it will be...
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Adli
post Aug 21 2015, 09:38 AM
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My first thought when it comes to any vibration that is impacted by speed is to check the wheels to see if I lost a balancing weight. They're just siliconed in place. With the high temps coupled with age...just a thought. Good luck and heal quickly (you and the RG) so we can get together before the snow flies.
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SeaHag
post Sep 12 2015, 12:44 AM
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Thank you all for the tips and suggestions. I am happy to report SUCCESS! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerbang1.gif) It turned out my first inclination was correct...motor mount. It was vibrating like a 60's rigid mount panhead. But when I first investigated the front linkage and rubber mount, I only checked for the bolt retaining/connecting the Velva Ride mount. When that was confirmed solid, I moved on too quickly. After raising the tank so I could confirm the top mount wasn't broken, I ended up back under the bike, which was on the lift. It was down there that I noticed a bolt poking down by the frame cross-member...with no nut. And the matching hole on the other side had no bolt at all! So the front rubber mount was essentially 'broken' because of it's disconnection. Thankfully, I had the one remaining bolt to run to the hardware store with instead of spending three times as much at the HD dealership. $7 in grade 8 hardware later I was back home fighting it all back together. They don't give you much room to work on those bolts to begin with. Add to that hassle I didn't want to remove my fairing lowers, oil cooler, or voltage regulator to get more room...Pain in the ass!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) I sure could have used some crow foot wrenches...but anyway three hours later Sara and I were taking it out for a test drive and everything is ship shape again. As a matter of fact, it's running smoother than it has in quite a while. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bike.gif) There's no telling how long it's taken those bolts to loosen to the point that they did. So I'm sure the front isolator wasn't doing an optimal job.

Note 1: I'm glad it didn't turn out to be a problem with the SERT mapping. My old tower PC that I previously used to tune the bike is decomissioned in the basement with no monitor, so I installed the software on our newer Toshiba laptop that was recently upgraded to Windows 10. Problem is Windows 10 will not work with the driver for the USB to Serial port adaptor cord I have to plug into the dongle. Tried the latest driver I could find online and Windows Update with no luck. So Ok...I've also got this older SONY VAIO laptop that has gone unused for months because between the Toshiba and our smart phones, we haven't need of the other laptop. The VAIO is still running windows 7 and I figure it will talk to the adaptor, so I load the software on that PC, run the updater for malware, anti-everything, scan the computer and clean it up. Take it out to garage, plug into the bike and start looking for the correct com port to assign when theres a pop and the lights and screen go dark on the computer. Then I see a tiny wisp of smoke coming from near the power button...it smells burnt and hot. So currently I have no easy way to reflash my tuning hardware.


So for your reference I've circled the bolts in question in red. This isn't a pic from my bike. It was such a greasy pain in the ass that I didn't want to fuck with my phone to take a pic. So this google image was a nice find. Note how much more shit is in the way on a touring bike without stripping it down. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/banghead.gif)


Attached File  HD_motor_mount_highlighted_bolts.jpg ( 136.34k ) Number of downloads: 0
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SeaHag
post Sep 12 2015, 01:59 AM
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QUOTE(SeaHag @ Aug 11 2015, 02:15 AM) *
First thoughts were bad gas since the bike operated just fine the week before when I last rode it to work. I thought perhaps with all the recent high heat and humidity the gas had absorbed the extra moisture in the air. New gas didn't fix it so I thought maybe it was a bad motor mount, but the front is a two year old Velva-Ride urethane that should be good forever and the other two look good on first inspection. Third thought was perhaps my slow leaking primary emptied out enough to prevent the hydraulic primary chain tensioner from working properly. The oil level was fine; but I topped it off anyway while in there and it didn't improve anything. I haven't checked the plugs yet, but they were brand new in June. I'll be pulling the plugs over the weekend to take a look though. If everything looks good with the plugs and it's still running the same, my next thought is that somehow the Screaming Eagle Race tuner has dropped the map for my big bore worked motor; as I know that has happened to some other friends of mine in the past...though never to me or this bike before. I'll have to locate my dongle and SERT program disc to install on my new laptop and reflash the map.

Any thoughts?


One other success relates to this mis-belief I had written about above. I was disappointed when I didn't solve the leaking oil issue after changing out my primary gasket earlier this summer. Turns out the weep was traced back this morning to the transmission jack-shaft that connects to the shift linkage. I checked the tranny fluid, and because I had formerly used the Redline Shock Proof Heavy Duty which looks like Pepto-Bismol, but this year used some easier to source Mobil 1 gear lube that was easier to source, the mixing of the pink residue with the new fluid makes it look very much like the red ATF I use in my primary. Turns out the transmission is slightly overfilled too; so the weeping by that jackshaft seal is not surprising. Small beans and easy enough to "fix" next year when I switch back to the Redline product. In the meantime, I'll put up with the light weeping. It's good to know it's source so it's not weighing on my mind when we head up north the first weekend in October to scout rally routes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bike.gif)

This post has been edited by SeaHag: Sep 12 2015, 02:00 AM
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Spurrs
post Sep 12 2015, 06:18 AM
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Great job , Clay - glad you got it all figured out!
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Jarhead
post Sep 12 2015, 06:49 AM
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Outstanding!
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Blackcloud
post Sep 12 2015, 07:07 AM
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That's good news. Glad it wasn't something serious or expensive.
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Ordy
post Sep 12 2015, 09:32 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

don't you love it when a plan comes together?

You're my hero bruddah....

Ride safe
Ordy
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