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> Need a new Battery
Will Avila
post Jul 22 2010, 10:32 AM
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Do I really need a $150 HD battery.?
Wont a motorcycle batttery purchased anywhere else be just as strong or maybe even better.?

If so, which one and where do I go.?

thanks guys..
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xusnatc
post Jul 22 2010, 10:36 AM
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I recently bought one from Batterymart here where I live and paid around $85.00 with tax. Find a battery warehouse place in your area and go that route.
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Big_Ty
post Jul 22 2010, 11:02 AM
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Just dont try and save 20 bucks and get a battery you have to fill yourself! make sure its a SEALED battery no leaking!
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zip
post Jul 22 2010, 11:15 AM
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$150??? I bought a stock HD battery and it was not near $150!

Personally I do not skimp on batteries and tires...cause you need them to get HOME. LOL
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Wildchild
post Jul 22 2010, 11:31 AM
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Best battery Mo ever used was a Die Hard from Sears. It went to nearly 50,000 miles.
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Fgowi
post Jul 22 2010, 12:53 PM
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I've had good luck with Interstate.

Having said that, there is an HD battery in my RG. But, I bought it "on the road" in FL last Thanksgiving. I'm NOT impressed with this battery. My charging system is good ('bout the only damn thing). No drain on the system and this battery runs down or low after a relatively short time of not using the bike.
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Will Avila
post Jul 23 2010, 12:39 PM
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Ive read that when Jump starting a Motorcycle battery with a Car one should NOT have the car's engine running as this may damage the bike's charging system due to the amperage differences between a car & a motorcycle...

But I've also read instructions where it states to go ahead & start the car's engine after the connections are made...

Any truth to the former ?



This post has been edited by Will Avila: Jul 23 2010, 12:41 PM
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Fgowi
post Jul 23 2010, 12:57 PM
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Makes some sense I suppose.

Your bike's charging system "reads" 14 volts while running. Put a meter on the battery with the engine off and it will be less. Not sure what kind of amps are going into the battery while you're running down the road as opposed to a car's charging system. It would follow, since car batteries are much bigger and require more cranking amps that car's charging system puts out much more.
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xusnatc
post Jul 23 2010, 02:33 PM
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Dont start the vehicles engine.
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OakR8R
post Jul 23 2010, 08:02 PM
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I purchased this Battery

Bought it at a local indy for $89 installed. Was told that it is made by the same company that Harley uses. What was important to me is the cold cranking amps and that it is an AGM (abosorbant glass matt) battery.
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Will Avila
post Jul 28 2010, 12:32 PM
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I still havent bought a battery. I WAS waiting for this pay day to do it, but ........

I took the battery today to a local auto parts store where they checked it for me and it turns out the battery has plenty of cold cranking amps.
I also checked the fuses last nite and they're all good...

Although it is time for a new battery, I know that it is not the issue my bike is having..

Any thoughts....?
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Blackdeuce
post Jul 28 2010, 03:36 PM
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QUOTE(Will Avila @ Jul 28 2010, 12:32 PM) *
I still havent bought a battery. I WAS waiting for this pay day to do it, but ........

I took the battery today to a local auto parts store where they checked it for me and it turns out the battery has plenty of cold cranking amps.
I also checked the fuses last nite and they're all good...

Although it is time for a new battery, I know that it is not the issue my bike is having..

Any thoughts....?



I have had a couple of car batteries that tested "good" at NAPA and Auto Zone. Despite this, I bought new batteries and my problems were solved. I don't trust those friggin testers. If you are going to buy a new battery anyway, try it and see if it fixes your problem.
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Bigbits
post Jul 28 2010, 04:57 PM
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Know anyone you can swap batteries with for a start up. That should determine if it's the battery.
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Will Avila
post Jul 30 2010, 12:59 PM
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Tried a friends battery yesterday and nothing ....
Im having the bike towed to the dealer tommorrow...

Im betting its the ignition switch ...
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Will Avila
post Aug 3 2010, 07:23 AM
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Had the bike towed in on Saturday to the dealer.
They told me they wouldn't be able to see it until monday ( yesterday)

I spoke to them late in the afternoon and they told me the tech had it all stripped down and he was trying to find out what the issue was.... that they should know by today.

Okay , so if the tech is still trying to diagnose the problem at least I dont feel like a total idiot.....

I was worried that it was something simple and the entire service dept was gonna be laughing at me when I came to pick it up...! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/whistling.gif)

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Will Avila
post Aug 3 2010, 07:33 AM
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like the run switch was off or something.....
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rebel715
post Aug 3 2010, 07:44 AM
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If your battery is testing good, it sounds like you have an issue with corrosion on one of the battery cables, or a cable to your starter, or a ground cable. I would remove the cables, clean them and lube the contact points with grease or vaseline to prevent future corrosion.
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Will Avila
post Aug 3 2010, 08:06 AM
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QUOTE(rebel715 @ Aug 3 2010, 08:44 AM) *
If your battery is testing good, it sounds like you have an issue with corrosion on one of the battery cables, or a cable to your starter, or a ground cable. I would remove the cables, clean them and lube the contact points with grease or vaseline to prevent future corrosion.


Its at the dealer and they're checking it out now,,,
I'll let you guys know what the problem was as soon as I pick it up and find out myself..

as far as corrossion, the bike is only 3 1-2 yrs old and kept under roof. Although humidity here in FLorida is high, when I took the battery out to have it checked, as the cables looked new...
I had always kept the terminals coated with a Battery terminal Lubricating spray.
Thanks

This post has been edited by Will Avila: Aug 3 2010, 08:07 AM
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rebel715
post Aug 3 2010, 08:12 AM
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QUOTE(Will Avila @ Aug 3 2010, 09:06 AM) *
Its at the dealer and they're checking it out now,,,
I'll let you guys know what the problem was as soon as I pick it up and find out myself..

as far as corrossion, the bike is only 3 1-2 yrs old and kept under roof. Although humidity here in FLorida is high, when I took the battery out to have it checked, as the cables looked new...
I had always kept the terminals coated with a Battery terminal Lubricating spray.
Thanks



Very good. A lot of times you will get corrosion due to dissimilar metals in contact with one another. Add the Florida salt/humidity in the air and you have a good recipe for the perfect insulator. Keep us posted.
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Wildchild
post Aug 3 2010, 08:24 AM
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I swear you cursed me when I read this thread, Will. I had to get one last Friday.
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rebel715
post Aug 3 2010, 08:27 AM
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I've found the easiest way to 'drain' my battery is to remove the stopper!!
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Will Avila
post Aug 4 2010, 12:27 PM
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dang it... Day 3 and the bike is still being seen by the dealer....

Its under my extended warranty so I guess they really want to give that insurance company a nice bill...


Hope they dont come back to me & say, "We found the problem was caused by that Smart Siren you plugged in last year. So the warranty is considered void." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ermm.gif)

That's about the ONLY electrical add on I've done to this bike.
Should not have anything to do with starting issues..
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rebel715
post Aug 4 2010, 01:04 PM
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Actually if you think about it the smart siren MAY be your problem. It may have a feature that will disable the ignition circuit when the primary battery is disconnected.
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rebel715
post Aug 4 2010, 01:10 PM
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Check this out:
Note – if the supplied generic harness is used, the Starter Relay wire needs to be cut an inch or two back from the connector. The two black wires from the kit are then spliced to each cut end. Make sure these connections are absolutely solid – if they ever fail, the motorcycle will not start

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-ala...3300-review.htm
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Will Avila
post Aug 5 2010, 01:32 PM
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Day 4 and finally the Bike is ready...!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/teehee.gif)

Turned out to be the Maxi fuse was loose... It took them 4 days to figure that one.? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bullshit.gif)

I think they only got to my bike today...


Anyways, the Maxi fuse was the first thing I checked and it was okay ; not blown.
He said that I wouldn't have noticed it was loose. They had to take it apart and re torque it..?

Anyone know what that means..?





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rebel715
post Aug 5 2010, 01:42 PM
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May have to do with spring tension on the contacts. My Sturgis had a turn signal problem that baffled me once. The bulb was good, I had a good ground, and I had the 12 volts at the lamp contacts also. The problem was a rusted spring in the turn signal housing that was not allowing enough spring tension for the contact to be made between the contacts. Strange stuff sometimes!!! Glad to hear y'all got it fixed!!!
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Fgowi
post Aug 5 2010, 01:56 PM
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You mean you don't check the torque on your fuses?!?!?!?

No clue, Will. Unless the mount for the fuse provides ground.

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rebel715
post Aug 5 2010, 02:01 PM
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The only torque I can think of is the tightness of the connectors that clamp onto the maxi fuse.
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